pizza of the gods
Josh and I recently went to one of our favorite pizzerias and ordered the usual: a pizza known only as “The Sopranos”. This is, unquestionably, the greatest pizza we have ever had, except for the unnecessary amount of grease. Josh and I diverge on this point: both on the amount of grease present on said pizza and on the negativity of said grease on said pizza. He believes that there was little to no grease on the pizza, and, if there was, it would be expected. This is coming from a man, mind you, who wraps all of his food in napkins – sandwiches, pizza, ribs, wings, you name it. So of course, his grease was already soaked up by his napkin wrapped pizza. I, on the other hand, thought there was too much grease. I do, however, admittedly have a disorder that compels me to critique everything I have not prepared. Let’s just say, though, that at the finale of every slice we have to wipe our elbows from the grease that drizzles down our arms from these pies. Nonetheless, we continue going since this is not your average pizza place. They use fresh organic ingredients such as brie and apples, Spanish tuna, snow peas, and grana padano cheese. This story, however, is not about the pizza shop. It is about my inspiration from the pizza shop to create a pizza for the gods. Literally. For the gods.
Due to my aforementioned disorder, it is not everyday that I go to a restaurant and actually like what I order. I tend to find the food bland or overcooked, or imperfectly presented. I love to discuss ways I could improve upon the dish or add depth and color. But with a pizzeria that makes pizza this good, I almost didn’t feel the need to recreate it myself – except for the grease issue, which apparently only I have. What can I say? I dislike dabbing my slice with paper towels or holding it over my plate to let the excess drizzle off. Thus the decision to create a pizza for the gods.
The day I decided it was time to undertake the recreation it happened to be over 90 degrees outside. Additionally, because my AC is also on the fritz, it was a 90 degree day inside as well. And in addition to the previous addition, pizza requires a hot-hot oven, 550 degrees to be exact – a combination for heat exhaustion. But I would gladly suffer and sweat through a hot house on a hot day with a hot oven for this pizza. The mushrooms were earthy, and the onions were sweet. The sausage was meaty but not heavy or overpowering. The cheese also adds a smokiness that rounded the whole pizza and it was all piled onto the crispiest, thinnest, most delicious crust I have ever made. I must say, with not a little pride, that I created a pizza for the gods. It turned out better than the pizzeria and less greasy. Even Josh had to admit that this pizza topped all others and that no napkins were needed.
Thin Crust Pizza with Sausage, Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms
Makes 1 medium pizza, about 8 slices
Dough:
6 tablespoons warm water (may need a few tablespoons more)
3 tablespoons white wine
3/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 teaspoon honey
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
Sauce:
4 tomatoes
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon white wine
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Toppings:
4 ounces mushrooms, sliced, I used a combination of shiitake and baby portabello
1 medium yellow onion, finely sliced
5 ounces ground or bulk italian sausage
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup freshly grated mozzarella cheese
1/4 cup freshly grated smoked mozzarella cheese (this is the secret to this whole pizza, you don’t want to skip it!)
Dough: Whisk together the wine, water and yeast in a medium bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer) until the yeast has dissolved. Add honey, salt, oil and stir. Add flour and work with your fingers (or you can use the dough hook attachment on medium speed) until it forms a ball. If dough is dry and not coming together, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time until it starts to come together. The dough should not be wet or sticky.
Sprinkle flour on a clean, flat surface and knead the dough for 1 – 2 minutes.
Wipe out the bowl the dough was mixed in, and coat with olive oil. Place dough in bowl and turn the dough several times in the bowl, making sure every side of the ball is covered in oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise for 1 – 2 hours, or until it is doubled in size.
Sauce: While the dough is rising, make the sauce. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add tomatoes for 1 minute only and then remove using a slotted spoon. Let them rest on a paper towel for a minute or two, until it is cool enough to handle. Peel the skins off the tomatoes. If necessary cut a slit into the skin of the tomato and peel off the skin.
Drain the hot water from the pot and dry. Place the pot over medium heat and add the butter. Once melted add the garlic. Saute until fragrant and soft, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add tomatoes, olive oil, wine, sugar and salt. Simmer the sauce over medium low heat, breaking the tomatoes with a wooden spoon as it cooks. Simmer sauce until thickened, 30 – 45 minutes.
Toppings: While dough is rising and sauce is simmering prepare toppings. Place a medium skillet over medium heat. Melt 1 tablespoon of butter and add mushrooms. Sprinkle with kosher salt, about 1 teaspoon. Saute until they just start to give off liquid, about 3 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon of butter back into skillet. Add onions. Saute them until golden brown and caramelized, about 10 – 15 minutes. Removed from pan and set aside. Add last remaining tablespoon of butter. Carefully pour into the skillet any liquid that has collected from the mushrooms. Add sausage. Cook sausage until just brown. Remove pan from heat.
Assembly: When dough has doubled in size, turn the bowl over on a flat, clean surface sprinkled with flour. Gently deflate dough with the palm of your hand. Form it into a ball and cover with plastic wrap or an upended bowl. Let it rest for 15 – 20 minutes.
Adjust oven rack to the lowest position. Preheat oven to the highest temperature it will allow. Mine went to 550°F.
Roll dough out on a floured surface until thin, mine made about a 15-inch pizza. Place dough onto a baking sheet, or preheated pizza stone. Spoon sauce onto dough and spread to desired thickness. Sprinkle both cheeses on top. Sprinkle, mushrooms, onions and sausage on top of the cheese.
Place pizza in the oven for 10 – 15 minutes, but start checking half way through. Once pizza is done, remove, slice and serve.
